Vegetables

What To Do in Your Backyard in September

Lawn Care

  • Lawns often thin in shady areas but typically recover during the fall through spring growing season.

  • Begin sodding lightly shaded areas once drier weather returns.

  • Where turf struggles to grow, consider replacing it with an attractive ornamental groundcover.

  • Mushrooms in the lawn are often a sign of healthy soil activity and beneficial organisms. Removal is generally unnecessary unless children or pets may come into contact with them.

  • Lawns infested with aggressive weeds should be renovated by removing affected areas and resodding, or by spot-treating with appropriate herbicides.

  • Repair pest-damaged or weed-infested areas with sod, plugs, or seed.

  • Delay broad weed-control applications until the end of the month.

  • Wait until October to fertilize lawns.

  • If turf appears pale, an application of iron or minor nutrients may provide temporary greening until regular fertilization begins.

  • Fall fertilizer applications are typically made in late September or October.

  • Complete Bahia grass seeding by early September.

  • Monitor for lawn caterpillars and chinch bugs, which can remain active into fall.

  • Fire ants are common in lawns. Treat individual mounds first, then consider treating the entire lawn if necessary.

  • Test soil pH and adjust as recommended.

  • Aerate compacted soils or areas that are difficult to wet.

  • Nematode management products are increasingly available through professional lawn-care providers.

  • Continue mowing at recommended heights and periodically vary mowing patterns to reduce wear.

  • Service lawn equipment now to ensure it is ready for the fall season.

In the Landscape

  • Prune dead, damaged, or declining branches affected by freezes, drought, or pests.

  • Control weeds before they produce and disperse seed.

  • Refresh mulch layers in preparation for drier fall weather. In many areas, only a light topdressing is needed.

  • Many landscape plants have exceeded their intended space; now is a good time for corrective pruning.

  • Give poinsettias and hydrangeas their final seasonal pruning.

  • Remove dead stems and spent blooms from roses to encourage healthy growth.

  • Clean and sharpen pruning tools to ensure clean cuts and reduce plant damage.

  • Expect caladiums and some ginger species to decline and enter dormancy until spring.

  • Replace declining annual flowers with warm-season selections and postpone cool-season plantings until temperatures moderate.

  • Clean containers thoroughly and refresh potting soil before replanting.

  • Incorporate organic matter into sandy or previously planted sites to improve soil quality.

  • Remove declining palm fronds and flower stalks, but retain healthy green fronds.

  • Sterilize pruning tools between palms to help prevent disease spread.

  • Avoid planting palm species known to be susceptible to prevalent diseases.

  • Watch for scale insects, mealybugs, and aphids, and treat when necessary.

  • Sooty mold often develops on insect honeydew. Controlling the insects and applying horticultural oil will help manage both problems.

  • Check container plants for clogged drainage holes and repot when needed.

  • Chrysanthemums provide excellent fall color, but heat shortens their display. For best results, wait until November to purchase.

  • Divide and replant overcrowded perennials.

  • Cool-climate bulbs are available, but many require special chilling treatments to perform well in Florida.

  • Add new trees, shrubs, and palms to the landscape.

  • Continue palm fertilization through October, or apply a slow-release palm fertilizer three to four times annually.

  • Begin fall fertilization of shrubs and perennials in late September, where permitted.

  • Feed hanging baskets and orchids every other week.

  • Remove aging leaves and spent blooms from water lilies and provide monthly fertilization.

Fruit and Vegetable Care

  • Plant as many warm-season vegetables as possible this month.

  • Set tomato transplants in the ground or containers early and begin training them to sturdy supports.

  • Use large containers for vigorous vegetable crops to provide adequate root space and moisture retention.

  • Clean containers and replace potting soil before each growing season.

  • Keep container-grown tomatoes evenly moist to help prevent blossom-end rot.

  • Add vegetables and herbs to patio and balcony container gardens.

  • Most vegetables require full sun, although leafy crops often tolerate filtered sunlight.

  • Remember that the sun shifts farther south during fall and winter, potentially creating more shade in the garden.

  • Revitalize previously planted beds by adding compost, manure, or other organic matter.

  • Remove plastic from solarized garden beds and plant directly without tilling.

  • In areas with nematode problems, dig large planting holes and fill them with quality planting mix.

  • Keep newly planted crops and seedlings consistently moist; irrigate established crops as soil begins to dry.

  • Apply the first fertilizer application approximately two weeks after transplanting or seed germination.

  • Continue monthly fertilization for in-ground plantings and every two weeks for container crops.

  • Consider using a slow-release fertilizer, which may provide sufficient nutrition for the entire season.

  • Incorporate flowering plants among vegetables to attract pollinators.

  • Provide supports for tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and other vining or heavy-fruiting crops.

  • Rejuvenate herb gardens in late September with fresh plantings.

  • Inspect the garden daily to monitor moisture levels, manage pests, and support healthy fall growth.

  • Use mulch to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and reduce soil splashing on edible crops.

  • Remove and root pineapple offsets to expand plantings.

  • Water citrus trees once or twice weekly during dry periods to support fruit development.

  • Start seedlings of cool-season crops toward the end of the month.

  • Begin fertilizing citrus and avocado trees late in the month.

Houseplant Care

  • Revive tired foliage plants by moving them outdoors to a shaded location while temperatures remain favorable.

  • Orchids and bromeliads often benefit from a period outdoors when growth begins to slow indoors.

  • Groom outdoor foliage plants by removing damaged or unattractive leaves.

  • Monitor for scale, mealybugs, thrips, and mites, and control infestations with appropriate low-impact treatments.

  • Gradually reduce watering and fertilization of Christmas cactus and other holiday cacti.

  • Decide which plants will return indoors as cooler weather approaches.

  • Repot foliage plants that have outgrown their containers before fall temperatures arrive.

  • Feed foliage plants monthly, or use a slow-release fertilizer according to label directions.

  • Replace declining houseplants with fresh selections for the new season.

  • Purchase amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus bulbs for holiday forcing displays.

What To Do in Your Backyard in August

Average Temperatures: High 92   Low 73

Monthly Average Rainfall 6.25 inches

 Plant in August

 Vegetables: Cantaloupe, collard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, lima bean, okra, pepper, pumpkin, snap bean, southern pea, squash, tomato and watermelon

Flowers: Angelonia, begonia, black-eyed Susan vine, blue daze, butterfly weed, bush daisy, cat's whiskers, chrysanthemums, coleus, coreopsis,  crossandra, fire spike, gaura, golden globe, heliconia, jacobinia, impatiens, lantana, marigold, melampodium, moon flower, pentas, periwinkle, porter weed, portulaca, purslane, salvia, Stokes aster, sunflower, torenia and zinnia.

Herbs: Anise, basil, bay laurel, chive, dill, ginger, lemon balm, Mexican tarragon, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram and thyme.

Bulbs type plants: African iris, agapanthus, amaryllis, bulbine, canna, crinum, crocosmia, day lily, gladiolus, gloriosa lily, kaffir lily, Louisiana iris, society garlic, rain lily and walking iris.

 Lawn Care

  •  Lawns appearing yellow can have an iron treatment instead of fertilizing.

  • Sod webworms have been feeding in lawns; apply Summit Caterpillar and Webworm Control.

  • Turn off irrigation systems during rainy periods; turf only needs 1.5” of rainfall or water a week.

  • Overwatered lawns should be weaned off irrigation with the summer rains. They may decline and wilt for a few weeks, but will recover.

  • Allowing your lawn to wilt a little between waterings helps deepen the root system.

  • Raise or replace pop-up sprinkler heads that don’t reach far enough above the sod.

  • Mow frequently and at the recommended height; sharpen dull mower blades.

  • Fill bare areas with sod, plugs or seed to take advantage of the good growing weather.

  • Wait until Fall to sod shady areas to prevent decline due to excessive moisture.

  • New lawns are susceptible to fungal problems; apply fungicide to help reduce decline.

  • Have problem turf samples diagnosed at your local University of Florida Extension Office.

  • Mushrooms are common in lawns after rains. Removal is not necessary but can be done.

  • Smelly mushrooms are often called stinkhorns; they are poisonous.

  • Control weeds that are filling bare spots and over growing the good grass by hand removal.

  • Consider another ground cover for hard to maintain and problem turf areas

  • Weed killers should not be used when temperatures are above 85 degrees.

 Landscape care

  •  Landscape plantings make lots of growth during summer; prune to keep in bounds.

  • Springtime flowering shrubs like azaleas, camellias, gardenias, hydrangeas, loropetalums, should not be pruned.

  • Thinning out excessive growth can help many shrubs avoid disease problems. 

  • Many shrubs & flowers need a summer feeding; fertilize where permitted.

  • Renew mulch layers to control weeds: keep them back a few inches from stems and trunks.

  • Summer rains can cause container plants to decline, check for proper drainage.

  • Do not count on summer rains to water new plantings; most need daily hand watering.

  • Use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the plantings for several months.

  • Don’t let vines climb trees and shrubs; train them to arbors and trellises.

  • Give palms a break; only remove the dead fronds and old flower heads.

  • Complete pruning of poinsettias, bougainvillea, and wisteria by month’s end.

  • Edge walkways and driveways to keep the landscape attractive.

  • Summer rains normally provide adequate moisture for established plants; water as needed.

  • Use foliage plants in shady gardens during the warmer months.

  • Avoid trimming sheared plants back to the same height; allow a little new growth to remain.

  • Stake newly planted small trees and shrubs that might be affected by wind.

  • Feed crape myrtles where permitted and remove seed heads to continue summer blooms.

  • Yellowing and leaf drop of crape myrtles are often due to a fungus. The leaves will drop anyway in Fall, no need to treat.

  • Caladiums may start to decline by month’s end which is normal.

  • Trim both declining flowers and foliage from perennial beds.

  • Divide bromeliads, Shasta daisies, day lilies and other landscape perennials.

  • Gladiolus can be left in ground if soil is dry.

  • Transplant palms and sagos.

  • Start poinsettia cuttings in early August.

  • Pinch the tips of chrysanthemums in early August to grow well-branched compact plants.

  • Feed water lilies and bog plantings in home water gardens monthly.

 Foliage & house plant care

 Time to prepare foliage plants for Fall; reshape and trim to encourage new growth.

  • Transplant root bound and poorly drained foliage plants, add new soiol.

  • Check for mealy bugs, scales and mites; control with natural soap or oil insecticides.

  • Make cuttings of your favorite plants.

  • Feed all foliage plants with a slow-release fertilizer where permitted.

  • Look for new plants to add to the collection.

  • Indoor plants accumulate dust like furniture; rise with water or a mild soapy solution.

  • Move light starved plants outdoors to a shady location.

  • Enjoy orchids and bromeliads indoors when in bloom, then move outside to the shade.

  • Divide clump forming foliage plants like Spathiphyllum and Sansevieria.

 Vegetable & fruit care

  •  Prune mangoes and lychee after harvesting fruit.

  • Check pineapples – fruits are ready when fragrant and turn yellow to orange.

  • Feed bananas and figs monthly but lightly; keep moist and mulched.

  • Many gardens are filled with summer weeds; remove by hand.

  • Enrich sandy soils and old garden sites with organic amendments and manure.

  • Test soil acidity and adjust the pH if needed before planting in ground and in containers.

  • Remove plastic from solarization after treatments and plant immediately.

  • Transplants started in July should be ready for the garden during mid to late August.

  • Plant quick growing warm season vegetables mid-August through early September.

  • Seeds of melons and pumpkins must be planted during early August.

  • Grow vegetables in large containers with good potting soil if you have limited space.

  • Give tomatoes an extra-large container and keep moist to prevent blossom-end rot.

  • Groom and feed herbs monthly; shelter container-grown herbs from the daily rains.

  • Mints in containers that stop growing may only need dividing and more fertilizer.

  • Clean containers between crops and add fresh potting soil.

  • Plant flowers that attract pollinators among vegetables to obtain better fruit set.

  • Where possible plant nematode resistant tomato and other vegetable varieties.

  • Open wide, 8 inch or deeper holes in nematode infested sties and fill with fresh pest free soil.

  • Begin staking or trellising taller growing crops when young.

  • Mulch new plantings to conserve water and promote better plant growth.

  • Feed sweet potatoes monthly and check dates of planting to harvest potatoes in 100 days.

  • Feed citrus with one-quarter pound of citrus fertilizer per inch of trunk circumference.

  • Apply a minor nutrient spray and insecticide to citrus at each flush of new growth.

February Calendar

Average temperature High 74 Low 51

Rainfall 2.35 inches

Central Florida’s average last frost date; February 15.

What to plant

Vegetables: Plant through mid-month; beets, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, celery, collards, endive, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, peas, potatoes, radishes, Swiss chard and turnips. After mid-month plant; beans, cantaloupe, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, luffa, peppers, pumpkins, squash, tomatoes and watermelon.

Flowers: Alyssum, aster, baby's breath, bacopa, begonia, candytuft, carnation, calendula, coneflower, coreopsis, cosmos, dahlia, delphinium, dianthus, diascia, dichondra, dusty miller, false heather, four o'clock, gaillardia, gaura, gazania, geranium, gerbera, Johnny-jump-up, lobelia, million bells, nasturtium, pansy, petunia, rose, salvia, snapdragon, Stokes aster, sweet pea, and yarrow.

Herbs: Anise, basil, borage, chives, dill, fennel, lemon balm, mint, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, tarragon, and thyme.

Bulbs: African iris, amaryllis, Amazon lily, Asiatic lily, blackberry lily, blood lily, bulbine, caladium, canna, crinum, day lily, gladiolus, gloriosa lily, Louisiana iris, society garlic, spider lily, rain lily.

Lawn care

• Zoysia and Bahiagrass lawns turned brown due to cold; no special care is needed at this time.

• Mow zoysia lawn to recommended height of two inches and remove thick thatch.

• Those brown spots in lawns are likely weeds; remove and resod when grass is available.

• One way to control weeds is with regular mowing to reduce them to the height of the lawn.

• Cool season weeds can also be spot treated with herbicides as labeled for your lawn type.

• When previous brown patch disease has been noted, apply fungicide for lawns according to label instructions.

• Crabgrass preventers can be applied mid-month to stop annual warm seasonal weeds from germinating.

• Do not use crabgrass preventers if you plan to resod, seed or need runner growth.

• Seeding of ryegrass for a temporary lawn is over; most permanent lawns should recover soon.

• Tan to brown cold damaged blades can be left or raked from lawns as growth begins.

• Delay feedings of centipede and zoysia lawns until they regreen for spring in April.

• Inspect irrigation systems; check for clogged or broken sprinkler heads and adjust as needed.

• Check rain shut-off devices to ensure they are working correctly.

• Sod or plug new lawns; begin seeding after mid-month.

• Turf is hard to establish in shady sites; consider another ground cover.

• Take time to have a soil acidity test made and readjust the soil pH if needed.

• Aeration can help older and overfertilized lawns with compacted soils, nematodes or hard to wet soils.

• Service lawn care equipment before spring arrives.

Vegetable & Fruit Gardening

• Frosts and freezes have ended many warm season crops; remove declining plants.

• Prepare gardens by tilling in organic matter with sandy and previously planted sites.

• Hurry to plant the last of the cool season vegetables in early February.

• Start seeds of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants now to have transplants by March.

• Prune cold damage from tropical tree and shrub type fruiting plants as needed.

• Bananas and papayas may have been frozen and need heavy pruning or replanting

• Pineapples may yellow their leaves and need major pruning but the plants should survive.

• Prune all deciduous fruit trees and vines as soon as possible.

• Learn how to thin peach & nectarine trees to obtain the best production.

• Plant container gardens to enjoy vegetables and herbs on porches and patios.

• Fertilize, groom and harvest herbs to keep them producing, dry and store extras.

• Warm season vegetables planted in late February are likely to need cold protection.

• Support vining crops by tying the vines to a stake or trellis.

• Plant additional fruiting trees, shrubs and vines.

• Purchase new seeds for the garden early to obtain the best selections

• Check with your University of Florida Extension office for new and better fruit varieties.

• Pine bark fines can be used to help adjust the soil acidity for blueberry plantings.

• Feed all fruit producing trees, shrubs and vines in late February.

• Use fallen leaves to form pathways, add a mulch to gardens or make compost.

• Sharpen, shovels, hoes and pruners to have them ready for spring planting and plant care.

In the landscape

• Take an inventory of cold damaged plants that may need to be replaced.

• Prune cold damage plants when you cannot stand seeing the brown leaves and branches.

• Plants may continue to decline due to cold so keep the pruners handy

• Perennials may be dead to the ground but should begin growth with warmer weather.

• Prune all but late winter and spring blooming trees and shrubs as needed.

• Reshape overgrown and out of bounds plantings including hedges.

• Only prune seed heads, small stems and suckers from crape myrtles.

• Prune ornamental grasses to within a foot or two of the ground before growth begins.

• Remove declining fronds and fruiting stalks from palms; leave the good green foliage.

• Give all but climbing roses a first of the year pruning around mid-month.

• Trim climbing roses after spring blooms to only remove dead or out of bounds shoots.

• Look for Florida bulbs to plant at garden centers to obtain the best selection.

• Move poinsettias to the landscape on warm days and apply a slow release fertilizer.

• Begin landscape tree, shrub and flower feedings if needed for growth and foliage color.

• Feed container gardens every other week or use a slow release fertilizer.

• Replant declining container gardens.

• Start seeds of warm season annuals and long-lasting perennials.

• Maintain a mulch around trees starting a foot from the trunks; six inches from shrubs.

• Prepare new flower beds; add organic matter to sandy soil.

• Plant bare root and container grown trees, shrubs and vines.

• Begin every other week feeding of orchids by month’s end or apply a slow release fertilizer.

• Start compost piles from leaves and yard debris plus thin layers of soil and a little fertilizer.

• Divide and transplant perennials.

• Clean lily ponds to prepare for spring growth.

Foliage and house plant care

• Many outdoor foliage plants show signs of decline: remove affected portions as needed.

• Replace severely cold damaged foliage plants when the weather warms.

• Check previous indoor plant additions for mites and insects.

• Most holiday plants can be grown outdoors when the weather warms.

• Give Christmas and holiday cactus a bright spot in the home; water when they start to dry.

• Remove faded flowers and stalks from forced amaryllis bulbs; add the bulbs to the garden.

• When indoor orchid flowers fade, move the plants outside to a warm shady site.

• Groom indoor foliage to remove old leaves, faded flowers and declining portions.

• Trim indoor topiaries and tree like plants to control size and shape.

• Feed all container plantings.

What To Do In Your Backyard In November

November vegetable garden, Leu Gardens, Winter Park. 

Average temperature: High 79 Low 59

Rainfall: 2.32 inches

Daylight Savings Time Change on November 3, 2024

What to plant

Vegetables: Beet, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, Chinese cabbage, collard, endive, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onion, pea, radicchio, radish, rhubarb, rutabaga, spinach, Swiss chard and turnip.

Flowers: Ageratum, alyssum, baby's breath, black-eyed Susan, bush daisy, calendula, California poppy, candytuff, carnation, cat's whiskers, chrysanthemum, cleome, cornflower, delphinium, dianthus, dusty miller, foxglove, gaillardia, geranium, goldenrod, heliotrope, hollyhocks, Iceland poppy, impatiens, larkspur, lobelia, ornamental cabbage & kale, pansy, petunia, phlox, salvia, shasta daisy, snapdragon, stock, sweet pea, verbena, viola and wax begonias.

Herbs: Anise, arugula, basil, borage, chive, cardamon, chervil, cilantro, coriander, dill, fennel, garlic, ginger, lavender, lemon balm, lovage, Mexican tarragon, mint, nasturtium, oregano, parsley, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, thyme and watercress.

Bulbs: African iris, amaryllis, anemone, bulbine, crinum, day lily, rain lily, ranunculus, society garlic, spider lily and narcissus; refrigerated Dutch iris, tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and similar bulbs needing a cold treatment before flowering.

Grasses: Lomandra Breeze, Lomandra ‘Lime Tuff’ (or Tough), Miscanthus ‘Adagio’, Muhly Grass, Dwarf Fakahatchee, White Fountain Grass, Lemon Grass.

Lawn care

  • Many lawns have thinned due to September’s rain and the hurricanes, provide extra attention to help recovery.

  • Fall is a good time to sod or plug problem areas in lawns; delay bahiagrass seeding until spring.

  • Complete fall feedings with a low phosphorus fertilizer during early November.

  • Less water is needed during cool weather; reduce waterings to when the grass begins to wilt.

  • Lawn watering is limited to once a week in most areas when Eastern Standard Time returns.

  • Water lawns separately from trees and shrubs that need less moisture.

  • Repair and adjust sprinklers to water efficiently

  • Chinch bug and caterpillar control may still be needed during warm fall weather.

  • Your turf may not need a complete fertilizer with nitrogen. Have lawn soil tested by the University of Florida lab to ensure proper feeding.

  • Lawns low in potassium can be given extra winter protection with a late month application.

  • Brown patch disease can be severe in zoysia; treat this month or when first noted.

  • Apply herbicides for your lawn type if needed for broadleaf and sedge weed control.

  • Continue mowing at normal heights.

  • Aerate hard to wet, compacted and nematode infected soils.

  • Sow ryegrass in barren areas for a temporary lawn starting in late November.

  • Remove and compost fallen leaves on turfgrass.

  • Fill in shady problem spots with ornamental ground covers.

Landscape plantings

  • Renew mulches to keep height at 3” – 4” to help conserve water during the drier months ahead.

  • Most pruning should be completed this month to allow new growth to mature before winter.

  • Only remove declining fronds and flower or fruiting stalks from palms to maintain vigor.

  • Palm diseases may be spread by pruners; disinfect at least between palms.

  • Remove declining warm season flowers and replace with the cool season flowers.

  • Work organic matter into flower beds and replace soil in planters before planting.

  • Slow release fertilizers are the best way to feed flower beds and containers.

  • Extend chrysanthemum life; remove faded flowers, keep the soil moist and feed lightly.

  • Make sure poinsettias receive no nighttime light; keep the soil moist and feed monthly.

  • Established trees and shrubs need infrequent watering; moisten only during the dry times.

  • Flower beds need watering when the surface soil begins to dry to the touch.

  • Scale insects have been heavy this year on shrubs and foliage plants; use a natural pesticide oil or spray.

  • Leaf spots and die-back are normal on many trees and perennials as they prepare for winter.

  • Cooler months provide the ideal time to move small trees and shrubs in the landscape.

  • Check braces and supports added to new trees, palms and shrubs.

  • Hurricane season ends November 30; select small sturdy trees for new plantings

  • Remove limbs and weeds interfering with sprinklers.

  • Complete all tree, palm and shrub feedings by mid-month.

  • Collect and refrigerate favorite flower seeds in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator.

  • Hurry to create wildflower plantings that won’t flower until spring.

  • Reduce feedings of orchids and bromeliads in the landscape as the weather cools.

  • Divide perennials and bulbs

  • Form compost piles to recycle yard waste.

  • Be prepared to cover or move cold sensitive plants to a warm location.

  • Fill hard to mow and problem areas with shrubs and ground covers.

  • Clean birdbaths and prepare feeders for winter.

  • Reduce feedings of water garden plantings

Vegetable & fruit gardening

  • Remove declining crops and plant the cool season vegetables

  • Herbs like the cooler weather; begin new plantings and revive older ones.

  • Start seeds of broccoli, cauliflower, collards, onions and similar to produce transplants.

  • Cool season vegetables can be added to the garden until February.

  • Add a few vegetable plants to the garden each month to have a continual supply.

  • The dry season is here; water when the surface soil begins to dry to the touch.

  • Improve sandy soils with garden soil, compost, peat moss and composted manure.

  • Feed the garden every 3 to 4 weeks with composted manure or a general garden fertilizer.

  • Stake or trellis taller growing crops to prevent wind damage and pests.

  • Maintain a mulch between plants and rows to conserve water and control weeds.

  • Caterpillars have been feeding in the garden; hand pick or use natural controls.

  • Give bananas and pineapples a final fall feeding with a general garden fertilizer.

  • Many early citruses are ready to harvest; use the taste test to tell when they are ripe.

  • Feeding time for citrus and other fruit trees is over.

  • Water citrus trees once or twice each week during the dry times.

  • Add new citrus or other fruiting trees to the landscape.

  • Sow papaya seeds to over winter in containers.

  • Delay all fruit tree pruning until late January or February.

Foliage and house plant care

  • Plant narcissus and amaryllis bulbs in containers to begin growth for holiday blooms.

  • Remember, no nighttime light for holiday plants until they begin to bloom.

  • Water holiday cactus and kalanchoe when the soil dries to the touch; keep poinsettias moist.

  • Wash away dust and plant pests with a soapy water solution

  • Check and treat outdoor plants for insects before bringing them indoors.

  • Discontinue or reduce foliage plant feedings every other month.

  • Begin bringing cold sensitive foliage plants indoors.