When cities and HOAs grow tired of maintaining landscaped medians, it shows. Crape myrtles, palms, Japanese blueberries, ornamental grasses, and other FDOT-recommended species selected for median plantings are valued for their adaptability and malleability[1], but they still require routine care. While these plants do not need the severe topping often referred to as "crape murder," they do benefit from seasonal pruning in both spring and fall.

Spring pruning should focus on removing crossing branches, limbs that restrict air circulation, and tender new growth that often develops as a result of improper pruning practices. By fall, these vigorous shoots have matured and begun developing into larger branches, requiring additional attention to maintain the plant's natural form.

Those vigorous shoots emerging from the base of a crape myrtle are called suckers. Although they may appear harmless, they can quickly alter the tree's graceful structure and divert energy away from flowering and canopy development. Suckers should be removed as soon as they appear by cutting them as close to their point of origin as possible.

Unfortunately, common maintenance practices often contribute to excessive sucker growth. Repeated injury from string trimmers or mowers around the base of a crape myrtle stimulates the plant to produce even more suckers. For this reason, weed whackers should never be used around the trunks of trees or shrubs. Mechanical damage not only encourages unwanted growth but can also create wounds that invite pests and disease.

For best results, inspect crape myrtles several times during the growing season, especially after pruning, storm damage, or periods of rapid growth. The easiest way to remove suckers is to catch them early. When the shoots are still soft and green, simply rub them off by hand. No tools are necessary, and early removal prevents them from developing into larger branches that require corrective pruning later.

Consistent sucker removal helps maintain the tree's attractive form, improves air circulation within the canopy, and creates a cleaner, more professional appearance. A healthy crape myrtle should showcase its distinctive bark and elegant branching structure, not a thicket of unwanted shoots surrounding its base.

Carefully designed and often expensive median landscapes can quickly become eyesores when routine maintenance is neglected. The lesson for cities, counties, and HOAs is simple: there is no such thing as a "no-maintenance" landscape. Every landscape requires ongoing care to preserve its beauty, safety, and long-term value.

[i] Malleability is the quality of plant material to easily recover after being damaged by vehicles, vandalism or similar causes.  Damaged trees will sprout from roots or stems to quickly restore their ornamental function.  Similarly, trees with high malleability can be more easily managed at a 100 mm or smaller caliper.  Stems are simply removed and replaced by sprouts which take the place of removed stems. Thus, a tree may be managed at a designated caliper diameter for a much longer time than one which cannot be so easily renewed. https://www.fdot.gov/   

Teresa’s note: The species are strong enough to slow down a colliding vehicle from entering the opposite-direction highway but able to give way for safety of humans and vehicles.

Palm tree declining in Orlando.

Managing a client installation in November 2025, I was taken aback to see a distressed palm tree in a neighbor’s yard. I felt compelled to help, though I wondered if the homeowner would even be receptive. After a discreet closer inspection, I discovered the root cause, realizing sadly that there was no remedy for this palm tree. What was the problem? Did it happen during the January 2026 freeze? Who is at fault?

I will post the diagnosis on Better Lawns and Gardens Facebook page on April 2, 2026 Facebook

Thank you to everyone who responded with guesses!

Challenges come frequently when talking about pruning crape myrtles.: “I cut my crape myrtles every year and they are just fine.” “Crape myrtles need to be cut to bloom.” “The HOA tells me to cut the crape myrtles and I try to stop them, but they say, ‘Cut them!”.

If you prune your crape myrtles this way every year and they are fine, you’re fortunate. It’s not a best management practice and it may only be a matter of time when the cut is the one that kills your tree.

Crape myrtles, if located correctly, shouldn’t need pruning except for cutting off suckers at the bottom, cleaning the trunk of sprouting shoots during spring, or trimming off the spent seed heads. Crape myrtles that are hacked off bloom later or don’t bloom as much, and cutting the trees incorrectly causes more suckering.

Don’t kill your crape myrtle. Read the University of Florida’s pruning instructions.

Proper way to prune palms.

Proper way to prune shrubs and trees.

This month’s Landscape Malpractice Tip #38 is a sad one. The photos were taken one year after installation. It is an example of poor design, ignorance of horticulture basics, within both municipal and commercial entities, waste of money and good plant material. Along with a “who cares?” attitude.

A commercial landscape designed by the developer/builder to get a C.O. and permitted by the municipal building department to receive approval and provide a C.O. (certificate of occupancy) Just get it done.

• ·Prime example of “instant landscape.”

• Two large canopy trees, Taxodium spp. one installed in undersized, curbed beds in the middle of the parking lot.

• The other cypress planted too close to the curb and other plants.

• The Muhly grass needs full sun and not spaced correctly — planted too close together. Muhly’s mature size is too big for that small bed and is not maintained.

• The Liriope muscari needs shade and mesic soils. It is not getting enough water to handle the sunlight.

• The Ilex vomitoria ‘Schillings,’ is fine, albeit planted in a yawn-inducing formal row instead of naturally spaced, but okay.

•  One small Redbud. It is fine.

• African iris in the far bed is fine, just overplanted.

Plants in native landscapes should be spaced based on their mature size, alongside other plants that have similar growing requirements.

Landscape architects and designers should know what the future site conditions will be and need to use mature sizes as a guide for the number of plants to spec and how far apart to space. Muhly grasses are 5’ to 6’ wide at maturity. With an 8’ x 10’ bed with an eventual 20’+ tall cypress tree in the middle, there should only be one to two Muhly grass spec’d, not four to six.

Using native plants in unnatural landscapes, (middle of parking lots and cement curbs) is not natural and looks terrible. Eventually companies get tired of looking at the high-maintenance, dead plants and trees in ugly areas. These mandatory “native” landscapes are then cleaned up and filled in with turf, or rubber mulch, gravel, and cigarette butts. Municipal code departments who permit these atrocities should know better. Who cares? The property owners who deserve guidance in planting native habitats should care, and the wildlife who deserve to have their environments protected care. We all should care.

This oak tree is planted only 3 feet from the foundation of the home. How far away should it have been planted?

Canopy tree shall mean a species of tree  that  which  normally grows to a mature height of  forty (40) feet or more.   (Florida ordinance)

Builders and developers are mandated by municipal building codes to plant a determined amount of canopy trees per property. The builder documents on submitted landscape plans where the trees are to be planted. The plan is approved. Why are builders allowed to plant canopy trees in the wrong location?

This oak tree, depending on the species, will grow 40’ to 60’ high and 60’ to 120’ wide. The tree in the photo above is planted 3’ from the foundation of the home. This very common practice is landscape malpractice to the ultimate degree. It puts the onus of the unknowing homeowner to pay for the cost to remove or transplant the tree to a proper location.

April 25th is National Arbor Day and everyone is encouraged to plant a tree. Please research to find out the mature width of your tree and plant it where it can grow to be its healthiest and live a long life.

Despite its cute little conical-shaped canopy, the oak tree above should be planted at least 30’ away from the home just like the oak trees in the background.

Who’s to blame? Whoever in the building code department who is signing off on the submitted landscape plans of new communities. They should know better - they write the rules.

Homeowner Associations (HOA’s) need to straighten their act out. It has been six months since the end of hurricane season, and you can still see the damage from tropical storm force winds. The frontage of this community has over 15 trees damaged by storm winds. This length of time and the new growth on these sadly leaning oak trees means that the trees have recovered from the storm and are being forced to live out their lives crooked. Not straightening these healthy trees means that eventually they will be expensively replaced (just from the HOA embarrassment of how they look – “Hey Joe, you know your trees are growing crooked?) and the initial hundreds of thousands of dollars landscape cost of purchasing the trees, installation, labor, irrigation, and maintenance afterwards will have been wasted.

After the storm, a certified arborist should have assessed the trees immediately to determine if they can be salvaged by root pruning and staking through the next hurricane season. That will help the trees survive to grow aesthetically healthy.

This situation should have been resolved earlier. Why hasn’t the landscape company that mows the property come forward to say that straightening the trees needs to happen? It is an opportunity for landscape maintenance companies to earn more money for repairing the landscape beds that they maintain. One week after the hurricane damage, those trees should have been straightened and followed up with an arborist’s oversight to see that they were okay. Cities and counties that impose stringent development regulations prior to a storm will be able to assess the damage in their communities following the storm. They can remind builders and HOAs that new development landscapes are affected and insist on timely corrective actions.

Even if cities do not straighten their own signs.

This isn’t a new landscape malpractice but one as old as dirt. Wherever there is an empty space of dirt that sees the light of day, Mother Nature will fill the vacuum with plants. And they are usually weeds. That goes for sparse turfgrass, unmulched landscape beds, areas with not enough mulch, and even a cement sidewalk crack with 150,000 grains of sand (one-half square inch).

The proper landscape maintenance before applying a new layer of mulch is to remove all the weeds, level the ground, and then put down the mulch. Depending on how much mulch is already in the bed, the landscaper would only put down enough mulch to bring it up to 3” – 4”. Mulching over weeds is an endeavor in futility. The weeds will only flourish with 1” to 2” of mulch and spread. Eventually the weeds take over, need removed and it needs more labor to remove around the already existing shrubs and groundcovers.

Don’t mask the weeds. Clean the bed out properly, remove all the weeds by hand or by chemical, (preferably before they have gone to seed), and then put down the mulch. Less work in the long run. Your landscape beds will look well-maintained and attractive for a season or more.

Growing up in the 50’s and 60’s my idea of bare-bottom was the Coppertone advertisements of its sunscreen lotion. A frisky puppy tugging at a baby’s diaper displayed on billboards and magazines, bare-bottom became synonymous with nostalgic Florida beaches. It became an iconic symbol selling millions of dollars in suntan products.

Back to the future in the 21st century, a frequent public display of landscape malpractice is what I call “bare-bottom syndrome.”  It’s when landscape maintenance companies or homeowners, especially ISTJ and ESTJ personalities, engineers, or linear thinkers, use their pruning tools to cut straight down the sides and tops of shrubs. They look perfectly neat and straight… for a while.

After one to two years of cutting the branches and leaves with straight lines prevents the shrub from receiving adequate sunlight to the bottom of the plant. This causes the plant to drop its leaves, resulting in a bare bottom with a V-shaped shrub. Leaves only at the top of the plant and no privacy.

To prevent losing your foliage, cutting shrubs with a slight angle outward at the bottom will enable the plant to keep bottom branches growing leaves.  

Rejuvenate improperly cut shrubs in stages, prune the tops first so that the area is smaller than the rest of the shrub. Allow sides to grow out.  Prune thereafter at a slight 80⸰ angle allowing the bottom to be larger than the top of the shrub.

Pruning your shrub correctly without bare-bottom syndrome, you won’t need to have nostalgia remembering what your plants looked like when you first installed them. Your hedge will stay full and dense with plenty of leaves at the bottom. .  

See the graphic for correct angle.

I’m guessing the homeowners are big fans of Dr. Seuss or their landscaper tried really hard to get the shrub tiers straight, but it didn’t end well. This reminds me of my Momma trying to cut my bangs straight and I would hear “oops” and she would go back to the side of my head and try again, and again, only to stop when my bangs were only 2 inches long. It did grow back. If this is your landscaper, stop them. There are correct ways to get an exact cut.

• Take string and a ruler and measure the string for each level’s height of the topiary. Tie the string to the top and hang down to the ground. Take your pruners and clip very lightly where the string (don’t clip the string) is marked. Then take your level and balanced in into the shrub and cut the foliage along the balanced level. Eyeballing isn’t a good idea.

• You can also take a ruler and just measure between the tiered foliage to get exactly the height you would like.

• Clip very lightly. This is not a job that needs a pole saw trimmer, but small hand pruners. And it should take you more than 3 minutes to prune 3 shrubs.

If you like the Dr. Seuss theme, go for it. But think about adding garden art to your beds, or large colorful orb or whimsy, so it looks like it’s a deliberate magical garden theme. If your landscaper is having “oops” moments, it’s time to find a new landscaper.