landscapes

What To Do In Your Backyard in October

Halloween decorations Photo credit: Teresa Watkins

Average temperatures High 85 Low 65

Average rainfall is 2.73 inches

 

October plantings

Vegetables: Beet, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrot, cauliflower, celery, collards, kohlrabi, lettuce, mustard, onion, peas, potato, radicchio, radish, rhubarb, roquette, rutabaga, spinach, strawberry, Swiss chard and turnip

Flowers: African daisy, alyssum, angelonia, ageratum, begonia, black-eyed Susan, blue daze, calendula, candytuft, celosia, chrysanthemums, cleome, coleus, cornflower, cosmos, dianthus, dusty miller, gaillardia, gazania, geraniums, gerbera, heliotrope, hollyhock, impatiens, larkspur, lobelia, nicotiana, pentas, petunia, salvia, snapdragon, sunflower, sweet pea, verbena and zinnia.

Herbs: Anise, basil, bay laurel, borage, cardamom, chervil, chives, coriander, dill, fennel, garlic, lavender, lemon balm, lovage, mint, nasturtium, oregano, rosemary, sage, sweet marjoram, tarragon, thyme and water cress.

Bulbs: African lily, agapanthus, amaryllis, anemone, bulbine, calla, crinum, day lily, gingers, gladiolus, pineapple lily, rain lily, society garlic, spider lilies, walking iris, watsonia. Refrigerate crocus, daffodils, hyacinth, narcissus, and tulips for forcing.

Grasses: Lomandra Breeze, Miscanthus ‘Adagio’, Muhly Grass, Dwarf Fakahatchee, White Fountain Grass, Lemon Grass.

 Lawn care

  • Get a soil test from the UF Soil Laboratory before fertilizing to know what nutrients to apply.

  • Have the soil acidity tested.

  • Apply lawn fertilizer to regreen the turf.

  • When applying fertilizer, follow label instructions.

  • October is the last feeding for Bahiagrass, centipede, and zoysia lawns this year.

  • Apply fertilizer and herbicides separately.

  • Regreen lawns that continually have a yellow look with an iron or minor-nutrient application.

  • Herbicide-only products may be used following label instructions for your lawn type.

  • Herbicides may not control all weeds; pull, dig or use non-selective spot sprays as labeled.

  • October through Spring is a good time to install sod.

  • Fill bare spots in lawns left from summer pests with sod or plugs.

  • Seeding time for bahiagrass is over; delay rye seedings until temperature highs are in the low to mid-70’s.

  • Chinch bugs and sod webworms can linger into Fall; control as needed

  • Water turf when it shows signs of moisture stress.

  • Use soil aeration in older, compacted, and poorly-drained soils to encourage better root growth.

  • Continue mowing to maintain proper turf height; keep mowing height the same year-round.

  • Sharpen & balance mower blades to give a smooth cut to leaf blades.

  • Change the oil and air filters of gas-powered equipment for Fall.

  • Use mulch or ornamental ground covers in areas where turf won’t grow.

 Vegetable and fruit tree care

  •  Harvest pumpkins this month. Look for dying leaves and vines, deep color, and hardened stem and rind.   

  • Use large transplants of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants to get a Fall crop.

  • Stake or trellis tall or vining crops to keep the edible portions off the ground.

  • Feed gardens every 3 to 4 weeks with a traditional fertilizer or use a slow-release product.

  • Tomatoes begin setting and holding their fruits early to mid-month.

  • Add flowers to vegetable gardens to attract pollinators.

  • Prevent spray damage to pollinators; apply sprays when they are not active.

  • Caterpillars feed on cucumbers, melons and tomatoes; control with a natural spray.

  • Begin plantings of cool season vegetables around mid-month.

  • Gardeners cramped for space can grow vegetables in containers.

  • Start seeds for transplants of broccoli, cauliflower, and similar vegetables in containers.

  • Add a mulch to the surface of the soil to conserve moisture and keep vegetables dirt free.

  • Groom summer weary herb plantings and start new ones that prefer the cooler weather.

  • Most vegetables & herbs need a moist soil; water when the surface begins to dry to the touch.

  • Fruit splitting on citrus trees is normal and may continue into the Fall.

  • Help prevent citrus fruit drop and splitting, water once or twice a week during dry weather.

  • Give citrus the final feeding of the year during early October.

  • Till new garden sites and enrich sandy soils with garden soil, organic matter and manure.

  • Remove offshoots from pineapple plants to start new beds.

  • Start papaya seedlings for late winter transplants.

  • Add strawberry plants to a garden or build a pyramid for planting.

  • Delay pruning all fruit plantings until mid to late winter.

  • Speed up the composting process by turning the piles monthly.

  • Harvest maturing chayote, cocoyam, dasheen, and gourds.

  • Dig in the soil to check sweet potato plantings; most have roots ready to harvest.

  Landscape chores

  •  Recycle dead shrubs and branches in your Halloween landscape.

  • Many plants produced late summer growth; prune to remove out of bounds shoots.

  • Major pruning time is over for azaleas, bougainvillea, camellias, gardenias, and poinsettias.

  • Shield poinsettias and holiday cactuses from nighttime light starting mid-month.

  • Shrubs, ground covers, and perennials, are ready for a final Fall feeding.

  • Use a slow-release fertilizer that can feed in-ground and container planting for months.

  • Most ornamental and shade trees do not need a special feeding

  • Give palms a final feeding of the year with an 8-0-12-4mg fertilizer or similar product.

  • Palm diseases are prevalent; clean and sterilize pruners between palms.

  • Be smart and only remove the brown fronds and flower stems from palms.

  • Give hedges a final trimming.

  • Remove suckers and low limbs from trees.

  • Weeds are plentiful in ornamental plantings; hand pull or spot kill to prevent seeding.

  • Whiteflies and mealy bugs are major pest; systemic insecticides offer good control.

  • Drier weather lies ahead; water when the surface soil begins to dry.

  • Most established trees and shrubs can go a week or more between waterings.

  • Trim away limbs and weeds affecting the operation of sprinkler systems.

  • Check container plantings for plugged drainage holes; repotting may be needed.

  • Maintain mulch under trees and shrubs; start the mulch several inches from trunks.

  • Determine tree needs and plant smaller growing wind resistant species.

  • Check tree and palm supports to make sure they are secure but not damaging the plants.

  • Add Fall plants to hanging baskets and container gardens.

  • Edge sidewalks and plant beds.

  • Replace soil in problem flower beds and planters.

  • Replant flower beds with cool season annuals and perennials; delay pansies until November.

  • Start Pansy and other winter annual seeds now for planting in November and December.

  • Divide perennial and bulb plantings.

  • Give water lilies and bog plants a monthly feeding.

 House & foliage plant care

  •  Order gift amaryllis to be delivered in December for Xmas.

  • Plants reduce pollutants and create a pleasing atmosphere when added to homes and offices.

  • Foliage plants are often a good buy at garden centers during Fall; replace declining plants.

  • Many foliage plants have grown too large for their containers; repot as needed.

  • Groom outdoor foliage plants and begin moving them to a warm location.

  • Most foliage plants need a bright light location but out of the direct sun.

  • Feed plants in bright light monthly; less often in low light.

  • Control insects on plants before moving them indoors.

  • Water holiday cactuses only when the surface soil dries

  • Begin forcing amaryllis and paper white narcissus for indoor displays and discontinue feedings.

  • Make sure indoor poinsettia, holiday cactuses and kalanchoes receive no nighttime light.

Turning a Hellstrip Into a Pollinator’s Heaven.

Beyond our home’s property easement is a space owned by the city or county.  Property owners are required to maintain this area. The typical landscape choice is grass. It is easy to mow, and it is green, right? But it is also an opportunity to create a little bit of heaven.

This rectangular space along the front of your home is used for entering your yard, deliveries, and by the mailman to reach into your mailbox. But can it be useful for something else?

Depending on your landscaping style, and if you are not in an HOA-ruled community, what about turning that small strip into a pollinator garden?

Benefits of a Florida pollinator strip include colorful flowers seasonally and no need for mowing or pesticide use. A selection of native and non-native annuals and perennials will provide ample diverse resources for butterflies, birds, and other pollinators. The cons will be a need for rainfall or another water source and more oversight to catch weeds as they germinate (and they will come). Pollinator gardens are not “no maintenance.”  

Designing a pollinator garden always starts off with soil testing, assessing sunlight, and a clean palette. Do not be apathetic and halfhearted about ensuring that your garden is weedless before you start. No need for landscape fabric. It is worthless keeping weeds out and will be a source of frustration in the future.

Owner: Ellie Dorritie, Hellstrip in Buffalo, NY. July 2025.

Once you know what you are working with, then you can select your plant palette and whether you want to start with seeds or plants. It is up to you. Planting seeds is less expensive; just remember that planting seeds will require monitoring and mulch to reduce the weed factor. (they will come.)

If you can afford it, planting annuals and perennials provides an instant effect that will give you satisfaction. I like to go with a combination of two-thirds plants and one-third seeds. Mark your seed areas with signs so that you do not pull sprouts up thinking they are weeds.

Start off with clearing a small area and as you have success, each season you can continue to remove your grass and substitute flowers and shrubs. Planting a heavenly area in your Hellstrip will be divine for pollinators. They will come.

This month’s Landscape Malpractice Tip #38 is a sad one. The photos were taken one year after installation. It is an example of poor design, ignorance of horticulture basics, within both municipal and commercial entities, waste of money and good plant material. Along with a “who cares?” attitude.

A commercial landscape designed by the developer/builder to get a C.O. and permitted by the municipal building department to receive approval and provide a C.O. (certificate of occupancy) Just get it done.

  • ·Prime example of “instant landscape.”

  • Two large canopy trees, Taxodium spp. one installed in undersized, curbed beds in the middle of the parking lot.

  • The other cypress planted too close to the curb and other plants.

  • The Muhly grass needs full sun and not spaced correctly — planted too close together. Muhly’s mature size is too big for that small bed and is not maintained.

  • The Liriope muscari needs shade and mesic soils. It is not getting enough water to handle the sunlight.

  • The Ilex vomitoria ‘Schillings,’ is fine, albeit planted in a yawn-inducing formal row instead of naturally spaced, but okay.

  •  One small Redbud. It is fine.

  • African iris in the far bed is fine, just overplanted.

Plants in native landscapes should be spaced based on their mature size, alongside other plants that have similar growing requirements.

Landscape architects and designers should know what the future site conditions will be and need to use mature sizes as a guide for the number of plants to spec and how far apart to space. Muhly grasses are 5’ to 6’ wide at maturity. With an 8’ x 10’ bed with an eventual 20’+ tall cypress tree in the middle, there should only be one to two Muhly grass spec’d, not four to six.

Using native plants in unnatural landscapes, (middle of parking lots and cement curbs) is not natural and looks terrible. Eventually companies get tired of looking at the high-maintenance, dead plants and trees in ugly areas. These mandatory “native” landscapes are then cleaned up and filled in with turf, or rubber mulch, gravel, and cigarette butts. Municipal code departments who permit these atrocities should know better. Who cares? The property owners who deserve guidance in planting native habitats should care, and the wildlife who deserve to have their environments protected care. We all should care.

Growing up in the 50’s and 60’s my idea of bare-bottom was the Coppertone advertisements of its sunscreen lotion. A frisky puppy tugging at a baby’s diaper displayed on billboards and magazines, bare-bottom became synonymous with nostalgic Florida beaches. It became an iconic symbol selling millions of dollars in suntan products.

Back to the future in the 21st century, a frequent public display of landscape malpractice is what I call “bare-bottom syndrome.”  It’s when landscape maintenance companies or homeowners, especially ISTJ and ESTJ personalities, engineers, or linear thinkers, use their pruning tools to cut straight down the sides and tops of shrubs. They look perfectly neat and straight… for a while.

After one to two years of cutting the branches and leaves with straight lines prevents the shrub from receiving adequate sunlight to the bottom of the plant. This causes the plant to drop its leaves, resulting in a bare bottom with a V-shaped shrub. Leaves only at the top of the plant and no privacy.

To prevent losing your foliage, cutting shrubs with a slight angle outward at the bottom will enable the plant to keep bottom branches growing leaves.  

Rejuvenate improperly cut shrubs in stages, prune the tops first so that the area is smaller than the rest of the shrub. Allow sides to grow out.  Prune thereafter at a slight 80⸰ angle allowing the bottom to be larger than the top of the shrub.

Pruning your shrub correctly without bare-bottom syndrome, you won’t need to have nostalgia remembering what your plants looked like when you first installed them. Your hedge will stay full and dense with plenty of leaves at the bottom. .  

See the graphic for correct angle.

I’m guessing the homeowners are big fans of Dr. Seuss or their landscaper tried really hard to get the shrub tiers straight, but it didn’t end well. This reminds me of my Momma trying to cut my bangs straight and I would hear “oops” and she would go back to the side of my head and try again, and again, only to stop when my bangs were only 2 inches long. It did grow back. If this is your landscaper, stop them. There are correct ways to get an exact cut.

  • Take string and a ruler and measure the string for each level’s height of the topiary. Tie the string to the top and hang down to the ground. Take your pruners and clip very lightly where the string (don’t clip the string) is marked. Then take your level and balanced in into the shrub and cut the foliage along the balanced level. Eyeballing isn’t a good idea.

  • You can also take a ruler and just measure between the tiered foliage to get exactly the height you would like.

  • Clip very lightly. This is not a job that needs a pole saw trimmer, but small hand pruners. And it should take you more than 3 minutes to prune 3 shrubs.

If you like the Dr. Seuss theme, go for it. But think about adding garden art to your beds, or large colorful orb or whimsy, so it looks like it’s a deliberate magical garden theme. If your landscaper is having “oops” moments, it’s time to find a new landscaper.