Landscape design

This month’s Landscape Malpractice Tip #38 is a sad one. The photos were taken one year after installation. It is an example of poor design, ignorance of horticulture basics, within both municipal and commercial entities, waste of money and good plant material. Along with a “who cares?” attitude.

A commercial landscape designed by the developer/builder to get a C.O. and permitted by the municipal building department to receive approval and provide a C.O. (certificate of occupancy) Just get it done.

  • ·Prime example of “instant landscape.”

  • Two large canopy trees, Taxodium spp. one installed in undersized, curbed beds in the middle of the parking lot.

  • The other cypress planted too close to the curb and other plants.

  • The Muhly grass needs full sun and not spaced correctly — planted too close together. Muhly’s mature size is too big for that small bed and is not maintained.

  • The Liriope muscari needs shade and mesic soils. It is not getting enough water to handle the sunlight.

  • The Ilex vomitoria ‘Schillings,’ is fine, albeit planted in a yawn-inducing formal row instead of naturally spaced, but okay.

  •  One small Redbud. It is fine.

  • African iris in the far bed is fine, just overplanted.

Plants in native landscapes should be spaced based on their mature size, alongside other plants that have similar growing requirements.

Landscape architects and designers should know what the future site conditions will be and need to use mature sizes as a guide for the number of plants to spec and how far apart to space. Muhly grasses are 5’ to 6’ wide at maturity. With an 8’ x 10’ bed with an eventual 20’+ tall cypress tree in the middle, there should only be one to two Muhly grass spec’d, not four to six.

Using native plants in unnatural landscapes, (middle of parking lots and cement curbs) is not natural and looks terrible. Eventually companies get tired of looking at the high-maintenance, dead plants and trees in ugly areas. These mandatory “native” landscapes are then cleaned up and filled in with turf, or rubber mulch, gravel, and cigarette butts. Municipal code departments who permit these atrocities should know better. Who cares? The property owners who deserve guidance in planting native habitats should care, and the wildlife who deserve to have their environments protected care. We all should care.

In my daily travels, I see yards that have potential. Would I love to have a crack at designing this landscape! Great bones, easy slope, full sun, and wonderful accoutrements, like a Spanish tile, water fountain, statues, and plants that enhance the Mediterranean-style home. But in its current state, it’s not positioned to enhance the home. The property is a large enough to expand the landscape with a classic pergola that welcomes guests graciously into their home. What would I do?

  1. Move the water fountain closer to the home.

  2. Add and transplant the bougainvillea.

  3. Add a flagstone patio. Install a rectangular pergola that runs lengthway i

  4. Add three 6’ x 6’ or 10’ x 10’ cement paver steps where each one goes down 8” down the slope with smaller steps further down the slope to road. On each side of three pavers plant perennial lantana or drift roses.

  5. Transplant Yucca to succulent and agave landscape bed in front of house on each side.

  6. Add 4’ x 2’ cement pavers to side of house.

  7. Add Live oak and Olive trees on sides of front yard.

My design incorporates Florida-friendly principles with low-maintenance plants. My plan could be done in phases. I would plant the oak and olive tree first. Install the flagstone pathway, then move the water fountain. Transplant the yucca, add the arbor, transplant the bougainvillea, then add the walkway, finally add the succulent and agave landscape beds. Remember to retrofit the irrigation system.

Now, how would you design the yard to utilize the immense sloped front yard and create a welcoming landscaped entrance?

Begonias, Boxwoods, Caladiums, and Cypress, Oh My!

Begonias, Japanese Boxwoods, Caladiums, and Japanese Cypress, (Cryptomeria japonica ‘Globosa’)

What to Do in Your Backyard in May

Average temperatures in May: High 87 Low 62

Rainfall 3.47 inches

What to Plant:

Vegetables:

Amaranth, boniato, calabaza, cassava, chayote, cherry tomato, collards, dasheen, Everglades tomato, ginger, lima bean, longevity spinach, Long-squash, Luffa, snap bean, Malabar spinach, malanga, New Zealand spinach, Okinawa spinach, okra, papaya, hot pepper, peanuts, pigeon pea, pineapple, roselle, Seminole pumpkin, Southern pea, sugarcane, sweet potato, Swiss chard, tamarillo, yam, and yard-long bean.

Annual and Perennial Flowers:

African iris, ageratum, angelonia, Apostle iris, balsam, beach sunflower, begonias, black-eyed-Susan, blue daze, blue sage, bromeliads, browallia, bulbine, bush daisy, butterfly weed, cat's whiskers, celosia, cigar flower, coleus, coneflowers, coreopsis, cosmos, crossandra, Dahlberg daisy, dusty miller, gaillardia, gazania, gerbera, goldenrod, gomphrena, impatiens, Jacobina, Jewels of Opar, lantana, Justicia, leopard plant, liatris, lion’s tail, marigolds, melampodium, Mexican heather, milkweed, moon vine, New Guinea impatiens, nicotiana, nierembergia, Nun’s orchid, ornamental sweet potato, pentas, periwinkle, phlox, Porter weed, portulaca, purslane, salvia, scorpion tail, Stoke’s aster, sunflowers, terrestrial orchids, toad lily, torenia, verbena, whirling butterflies, yellow alder, and zinnias.

Herbs:

Anise, basil, bay laurel, cardamom, chives, coriander, dill, fennel, lemon balm, oregano, rosemary, sage, savory, sweet marjoram, mint, tarragon, and thyme.

Bulbs:

Achimenes, agapanthus, Alocasia, amaryllis, blackberry lilies, blood lilies, bulbine, caladiums, calla lilies, cannas, crinums, crocosmia, Colocasia, day lilies, eucharis lily, gladiolus, gloriosa lilies, hurricane lilies, lily of the Nile, peacock ginger, society garlic, rain lilies, spider lilies, St. Bernard’s lilies.

Shrubs and Trees:

In Florida, most shrubs and tree species can be planted year-round.

Lawn Maintenance:

  • May is still our dry season. Set irrigation for 1.15 inches two times a week if there is no rainfall.

  • Check rain sensors are working.

  • Rake out brown leaf blades in turf that declined from winter.

  • Some areas of lawns may have died during the winter or with the drought; add new sod or plugs.

  • Make sure lawns and shrubs are watered thoroughly with rainfall or irrigation before final spring feedings with slow-release no-phosphorus fertilizers.

  • Retrofit irrigation systems to separate turf zone and landscape bed zone.

  • If needed, apply an iron-only or minor nutrient fertilizer to regreen yellow lawns.

  • Check for chinch bugs in yellowing areas of St. Augustine grass; treat at needed

  • Walk yards on weekly basis to look for sod webworm moths flying up from turf.

  • For low maintenance, reduce lawns areas needed for family and pet areas.

  • May is a good month to seed Bahia lawns.

  • Avoid mowing with dull blades; sharpen blades every five mowings.

  • Measure leaf blades to make sure the lawn it being cut at the proper height – remember the height of the blades is typically the depth of the roots.

  • Take a new route at each mowing to avoid ruts in the lawn.

  • Dig out or spot kill weeds and replace with plugs of grass or sod.

  • Aerate older compacted and hard to wet lawns.

  • Turf needs at least 5 hours of sunlight a day. Select shade-tolerant grasses or an ornamental ground cover for difficult shady spots.

Landscape care:

  • Plant Easter lilies, amaryllis, and poinsettias in the landscape.

  • Put declining tulips, hyacinths, and other forced bulbs into the compost pile.

  • Walk yards on a weekly basis to catch pest issues promptly.

  • Look under the foliage and move hand over shrub foliage to notice any pests flying up.

  • All winter-damaged ornamental grass fronds should be removed.

  • Reshape and prune shrubs with dieback or winter damage.

  • Avoid shearing across the tops of shrubs and perennials unnecessarily; remove out of bound shoots with hand pruners.

  • Have older trees checked by certified arborists before hurricane season and prices go up.

  • Look for sap-stained bark, hollow areas, oozing, in twin trunks as signs of tree problems.

  • Shape young shade trees to have one central leader with evenly spaced branches.

  • Maintain a 3” mulch layer under trees, shrubs, and garden beds to help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and enhance landscape.

  • Older shade trees seldom need fertilization.

  • Lift up and remove tree limbs affecting traffic along walkways.

  • Keep new trees and shrub plantings moist with additional hand-watering if there is not enough rainfall.

  • Use low-volume irrigation to conserve water.

  • Create rain gardens to redirect excess water from home..

  • Correct drainage problems before the rainy season arrives.

  • Make sure new plant selections have adequate room to grow.

  • Select plants for pool and patio areas that do not drop messy flowers or foliage.

  • One application of a slow-release fertilizer could feed your plants through summer.

  • Feed palms with an 8-2-12-4 or similar slow-release palm fertilizer according to label.

  • Fertilize all flower beds and shrub plantings with slow-release fertilizer as the rainy season returns.

  • Deadhead spent flowers from annuals to encourage new blooms.

  • Plant shady gardens with shade-tolerant flowers, shrubs, bulbs and foliage plants.

  • Cut back perennials finishing their spring bloom.

  • Complete pruning of azaleas and camellias this month.

  • Transplant palms when the rainy season returns.

  • Feed container gardens weekly or use a slow-release fertilizer as labeled.

  • Control rose pests by using systemic products for insects, only water the roots, not the foliage, and providing good air circulation.

  • Kill adult lubber grasshoppers by stepping on them or cutting them. Look for pairs.

  • Turn compost piles every two weeks. They may need to be watered 2x – 3x this month.

  • Feed water lilies and lotus monthly.

  • Begin rooting cuttings of favorite shrubs and perennials.

  • Collect and sow seeds from your favorite plants or save them until the proper time.

  • Pull or spot kill weeds among shrubs and flower beds.

  • Reapply mulch if not 3” thick.

Vegetable and fruit plantings:

  • Check your herbs and vegetables every day. Check for insects and soil moisture.  

  • Feed vegetable plantings monthly.

  • It’s too late for most tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants; select summer tolerant vegetables.

  • Maintain 3” mulch in the garden and use low-volume irrigation to conserve water.

  • Keep bananas and papaya moist and feed monthly to have flowers by late summer.

  • Give citrus, grapes, and other fruit trees a late spring feeding.

  • Prune blackberries and blueberries when fruiting is over.

  • Harvest maturing crops to keep the plants producing.

  • Remove declining fruit plantings and add new varieties.

  • Trellis vine crops to save space and prevent diseases.

  • Use soil solarization treatments to control nematodes and diseases.

  • Control fruit worms and leaf spots on vegetables with natural sprays as needed.

  • Control aphids feeding in new shoots with an insecticidal soap spray.

  • Incorporate aged compost with planting sites to improve sandy soil.

  • Purchase seeds now for planting in August; seed displays are often removed from stores during summer.

Foliage & houseplants:

  • Give weak and thinning foliage plants a spot in the shade outdoors to recover.

  • Check water needs daily.

  • Plants that are wilting often need to be checked for overgrown root system and not enough soil. If root bound, water plants well, then next day, cut a third of the roots off, and add more soil. Replant in same pot or move to larger pot.

  • Remove yellow leaves and faded flowers.

  • Reshape taller tree-form foliage plants and remove declining limbs.

  • Move orchids outdoor under trees for the summer.

  • Divide African violets, bromeliads, and orchids.

  • Place plants in bathtub or sink, wash pests and dust away with soapy water.

  • If you go on vacation, move plants to bathtub or sinks and fill with several inches of water to keep them watered while you’re away.

  • Feed outdoor foliage plants with a slow-release fertilizer.

This oak tree is planted only 3 feet from the foundation of the home. How far away should it have been planted?

Canopy tree shall mean a species of tree  that  which  normally grows to a mature height of  forty (40) feet or more.   (Florida ordinance)

Builders and developers are mandated by municipal building codes to plant a determined amount of canopy trees per property. The builder documents on submitted landscape plans where the trees are to be planted. The plan is approved. Why are builders allowed to plant canopy trees in the wrong location?

This oak tree, depending on the species, will grow 40’ to 60’ high and 60’ to 120’ wide. The tree in the photo above is planted 3’ from the foundation of the home. This very common practice is landscape malpractice to the ultimate degree. It puts the onus of the unknowing homeowner to pay for the cost to remove or transplant the tree to a proper location.

April 25th is National Arbor Day and everyone is encouraged to plant a tree. Please research to find out the mature width of your tree and plant it where it can grow to be its healthiest and live a long life.

Despite its cute little conical-shaped canopy, the oak tree above should be planted at least 30’ away from the home just like the oak trees in the background.

Who’s to blame? Whoever in the building code department who is signing off on the submitted landscape plans of new communities. They should know better - they write the rules.

A faux gate enhances the ambiance of my client’s garden to attract birds and butterflies and enjoy the conservation area view.

Create A Gate Faux Every Garden!

An interesting way to add an entrance (or an exit) to your garden is to install a faux gate. Even if you don’t have a fence, a faux gate will create the illusion of an entrance. Depending on your garden theme, it can be an old-fashioned crickety wooden gate created by tying branches together, or vintage rusty (safely sealed) metal gate, or a modern frosted glass panel between two columns.

Your gate can show where to walk in your garden. It can be at the end of your journey to a garden bench or meditation area. They can be placed at the beginning of the walkway, or midway along the path to indicate entering the next outdoor room, or at the end of the garden to allow visitors to leave with flair. Faux gates are easy to install between two complementary posts. Match the material of the gate. Make sure the posts are stable by using concrete bases in the ground or metal rods to secure them. Do not let them wobble!

Where can you find a faux gate? You can check out antique shops, Etsy, Facebook sales, garage sales, thrift stores, and vintage furniture stores. Or make your own from all the wood you collect on a hike during your vacation.

Instead of placing a beautiful antique gate on a wall, or featured as a piece of art, make them a purposeful piece of art, “thriller”, or just whimsy, just so you have a faux gate. Where would it lead you?

Plants to Hide Utilities – A/C, Well, Electrical Panels

  1. Podocarpus ‘Pringle’ – Podocarpus macrophylla ‘Pringle’

  2. Small Leaf Clusia – Clusia guttifera

  3. Dwarf Simpson Stopper – Myrcianthes fragrans ‘Compacta’

  4. Camellia spp. ‘Yuletide’, ‘Pink Perfection,’ ‘Kramer’s Supreme’

  5. Black Diamond Crape Myrtle – Lagerstroemia indica ‘Black Diamond’™

Teresa's Design Tips - Plotting For More Turkeys

Photo credit: Jeanette Mazza

I received a timely design question this month.

“Teresa: I live in a rural part of Central Florida and would like to have more wildlife, especially turkeys. What can I plant? “

Great question, Jim. Turkeys need three things: protected roosting sites, year-round food sources, and nesting cover. Being out in a rural section with lots of trees is also a preferred environment for turkeys. The wooded perimeter of cow pastures are also habitat for turkeys. Thick trees with understory of shrubs provide a sense of security where they can quickly run to escape a predator. Turkeys roost in trees at night for security.

To encourage turkeys to stay year round, supply food sources such as berries and fruits, insects, nuts, seeds, and vegetables. Oak trees with a turkey’s favorite food of acorns are ideal for turkey plots. A stand of Long Leaf Pine trees is also a good start. If your plot is within a mile of a lake or river that can provide water will also be helpful.

When choosing plant selections, diversity is important to remember. Three types of vegetation is optimal: groundcovers, taller grasses, and grains. Turkeys prefer lower groundcovers and grass when they forage. Grasses and small plants also necessary for turkeys to strut their stuff. Oops… I shouldn’t use the word stuff, should I?

Here is a nutritious menu for turkeys:

  • Grains: millet, oats, rice, soybeans, sorghum, and wheat.

  • Grasses: chufa, muhly grass, weeds,

  • Groundcovers: alfalfa, clover, legumes, rye grass, wildflowers,

  • Fruits and Vegetables, Insects, and Snakes.

The size of your turkey plots should be at least one-half to two acres bordering the edge of wooded conservation area or forest. Level the ground before any seeds are planted. Do not use herbicides to remove weeds or wait for the label’s instruction on timing to revegetate the area.

Leave an open strip of sand around the outside of your turkey plot. This will help turkeys dust themselves. Dust baths will help turkeys with itching, skin irrigation, maintain the feathers, and allows them to clean themselves.

Like wildflowers, Spring and late Summer is the best time to plant your turkey plot.